26 Stitches and Instructions BELOW
Before you begin your sampler
I want your book to be dependable, so here's my recommendation: make the first swatch, Moss Stitch, and check that the sides remain straight. Then use the same method of marking the first and last stitches for each subsequent swatch.
One honest qualification: a few stitches above—particularly Trinity, Rice, Granny, Block and Waffle—are sensitive to their exact repeat and edge construction. The starting chains are practical estimates for worsted-weight yarn, not guarantees of a precise 4–5-inch width. Test each swatch before making it part of your permanent reference book.
Also, Griddle Stitch and Lemon Peel Stitch are commonly used for essentially the same alternating SC/DC texture. You can keep both cards in your collection, but you probably won't need to make two separate swatches unless you want to compare the versions.
Make the swatches individually, then seam two together to form each page! 😊 That's my definite recommendation for your crochet stitch book.
Here's why I think you'll be glad you did.
Different stitch heights: Waffle, Bobble, and Star stitches can be much thicker than Moss or Mesh. Individual swatches let you adjust each one without affecting its neighbor.
Different row counts: Some stitches need six or more rows to show their pattern. You won't have to worry about that throwing off the next swatch.
Better troubleshooting: If you discover a mistake, you can rip out just that swatch.
Easier labeling: You can identify each stitch before assembling the pages.
Assembly Tips
Crochet each swatch separately, finishing and securing the yarn ends.
Block or gently shape the swatches so they're approximately the same width.
Seam the two swatches together with a yarn needle and matching yarn.
Attach a small label with the stitch name and its instructions, and comments
One important detail: Don't force every swatch to be exactly the same height. Make the two swatches on a page roughly equal in height, but let the stitch pattern determine how many rows you need.
That way, you'll have 13 sturdy, turnable pages, and you can add more whenever you discover another stitch worth keeping.
We're going to make you a proper 26-stitch crochet sampler book! 😄 One swatch for each stitch, in different colors, with instructions you can keep permanently. No more guessing at the beginning or end of a row!
I'm using your worsted-weight yarn and your preference for a consistent, easy-to-recognize edge. I'll choose one version of each stitch, not give you a menu of alternatives.
A quick note about the chain counts: they'll be starting counts aimed at swatches roughly 4–5 inches wide with typical worsted-weight yarn. Your hook size and tension affect the finished width, so the measurements won't be exact for every stitch. Where a stitch has a repeating pattern, I'll use a chain count that accommodates that repeat.
For your sampler, we'll use these rules throughout:
Mark the first and last actual stitches of every row while learning the stitch.
The turning chain counts as a stitch only when the instructions say it does.
Edge stitches are included in the starting width, not added on afterward.
Work at least four rows; use six or more when needed to see the texture.
For two-color stitches, change colors during the final pull-through of the last stitch in the old color.
Your 26 swatch instructions
Abbreviations: CH = chain, SC = single crochet, HDC = half double crochet, DC = double crochet, FPDC = front-post double crochet, BLO = back loop only, SK = skip, SP = space, ST = stitch, REP = repeat.
1. Moss Stitch
Starting chain: 21
Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. CH 1, SK 1, SC in the next CH. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 2, turn. SC in the first chain space, CH 1, SC in the next chain space. Repeat across, ending with SC in the final chain space.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: Work the first and last SC into the appropriate edge spaces. The CH-2 turning chain does not count as an SC.
2. Mesh Stitch
Starting chain: 23
Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook. CH 1, SK 1, DC in the next CH. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 3, turn. DC in the first DC, CH 1, DC in the next DC. Repeat across, ending with DC in the top of the turning chain.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: Count the turning chain as a DC. Keep the final DC in the turning chain so the edges remain even.
3. Granny Stripe
Starting chain: 23
Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook. Work 2 DC in the same chain. SK 2 CH, work 3 DC in the next CH. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 3, turn. Work 2 DC in the first space between clusters. Work 3 DC in each space between clusters across.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2, working clusters into the spaces between clusters below.
Beginning/ending: Use a turning chain and partial cluster at the beginning as needed. Finish with a complete cluster in the final space.
4. Spider Stitch
Starting chain: 21
Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. CH 1, SC in the same CH, SK 1 CH. Repeat across, ending with a complete SC–CH-1–SC group.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. Work SC, CH 1, SC into the center space of each group below.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: Keep each SC–CH-1–SC group complete. Do not skip the first or last group.
5. Block Stitch — Two Colors
Starting chain: 23
Row 1 (Color A): DC in the fourth CH from the hook and in each CH across.
Row 2 (Color B): CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. CH 3, SK 2 ST, SC in the next ST. Repeat across.
Row 3 (Color A): CH 3, turn. Work 3 DC in each chain-3 space across, finishing with DC in the final SC.
Row 4 (Color B): Repeat Row 2, placing each SC in the center DC of the blocks below.
Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last blocks complete where possible. Change colors during the final pull-through of the last stitch in the old color.
6. Crossed Double Crochet
Starting chain: 22
Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook. SK 1 ST, DC in the next ST, DC in the skipped ST, crossing in front of the first DC. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 3, turn. Work crossed pairs across, keeping the crossing direction consistent.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: Work a regular DC at the edge if an unmatched stitch remains. Do not leave the final stitch unworked.
7. Houndstooth — Two Colors
Starting chain: 22
Row 1 (Color A): SC in the second CH from the hook. DC in the next CH, SC in the next CH. Repeat across.
Row 2 (Color B): CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch, then DC in the next stitch. Continue alternating SC and DC, placing each stitch into the opposite stitch height below.
Repeat: Alternate colors each row and maintain the SC/DC sequence.
Beginning/ending: Keep the color and stitch-height sequence consistent. Change colors on the final pull-through of the last stitch.
8. Double Crochet
Starting chain: 23
Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook and in each CH across.
Row 2: CH 3, turn. SK the first stitch. DC in each remaining stitch across, finishing in the top of the previous turning chain.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: Count the CH-3 as a stitch. Work the final DC into the top of the previous turning chain.
9. Half Double Crochet
Starting chain: 22
Row 1: HDC in the third CH from the hook and in each CH across.
Row 2: CH 2, turn. HDC in the first actual stitch and in every stitch across.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: The CH-2 does not count as a stitch. Work into the first stitch at the base of the turning chain.
10. Falling Leaves
Starting chain: 22
Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook. CH 1, DC in the same stitch, SK 2 ST, DC–CH 1–DC in the next stitch. Repeat the cluster pattern across.
Row 2: CH 3, turn. Work DC–CH 1–DC clusters into the spaces between clusters below.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: Keep complete clusters at the edges where possible. Use regular DC stitches to maintain the edge if needed.
11. Star Stitch
Starting chain: 22
Row 1: Pull up loops through successive stitches to form the first star, yarn over and pull through all gathered loops, then CH 1 to close. Continue forming stars across the row.
Row 2: CH 2, turn. HDC across, working into the star-center spaces and stitches as required.
Repeat: Alternate the star row and HDC row.
Beginning/ending: Form complete stars wherever possible. The final star may need an edge adjustment.
12. Lemon Peel Stitch
Starting chain: 22
Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. DC in the next CH, SC in the next CH. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in each DC below and DC in each SC below.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: The CH-1 does not count as a stitch. Work into the first actual stitch and maintain the alternating pattern.
13. Wattle Stitch
Starting chain: 22
Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. CH 1, DC in the same CH, SK 2 CH, SC in the next CH. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC, CH 1, DC into the chain spaces of the groups below, following the established Wattle pattern.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: Keep the SC–CH-1–DC groups aligned. Finish with the appropriate edge stitch.
14. Classic V-Stitch
Starting chain: 22
Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook. SK 2 CH, (DC, CH 1, DC) in the next CH. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 3, turn. Work (DC, CH 1, DC) into each V space across, finishing with DC in the turning chain as needed.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: Keep complete V shapes in the pattern area. Use the appropriate turning-chain arrangement at the edges.
15. Suzette Stitch
Starting chain: 21
Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. In the next CH, work SC and DC together; SK the next CH. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. Work SC and DC in the same stitch, skip the next stitch, and repeat across.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: Keep the SC/DC groups intact and work into the first actual stitch after turning.
16. Bean Stitch
Starting chain: 21
Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. In the next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert into the same stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over, insert into the same stitch and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all six loops; CH 1. SK 1 ST. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. Work each bean into the designated stitches across, maintaining the bean-and-chain pattern.
Beginning/ending: Keep complete beans where possible. Avoid leaving a partial bean at either edge.
17. Bobble Stitch
Starting chain: 21
Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook and across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. In the next stitch, work 5 incomplete DC, leaving the final loop of each on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all loops to close the bobble. SC in the next stitch. Repeat bobble and SC across.
Row 3: CH 1, turn. SC across.
Repeat: Alternate the bobble row and plain SC row.
Beginning/ending: Keep plain SC stitches at both edges. Do not place a bobble halfway off the edge.
18. Sedge Stitch
Starting chain: 23
Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. In the next CH, work SC, HDC and DC together in the same stitch. SK 2 CH, work SC, HDC and DC in the next CH. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. Work SC, HDC and DC in the designated stitch or space of each group below, maintaining the pattern repeat.
Beginning/ending: Keep each three-stitch group complete where possible. Adjust the last group to maintain a straight edge.
19. Trinity Stitch
Starting chain: 21
Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. Insert hook into the same stitch, pull up a loop; insert into the next stitch and pull up a loop; insert into the next stitch and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. CH 1. Repeat the cluster sequence across, using the preceding stitch as specified by the Trinity repeat.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. Work Trinity clusters across, inserting the hook into the stitches and spaces specified by the cluster sequence.
Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last clusters complete wherever possible. Use plain SC at the edges if needed.
20. Alternate Single Crochet (Flax / Granule Stitch)
Starting chain: 21
Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook and in each CH across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the back loop only of each stitch across.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: The CH-1 does not count as a stitch. Work into the first actual stitch and finish in the last actual stitch.
21. Shell Stitch (5-DC Shell)
Starting chain: 25
Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. SK 2 CH, work 5 DC in the next CH, SK 2 CH, SC in the next CH. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 3, turn. Work 2 DC in the first SC where needed to form the edge shell. SC in the center DC of the next shell. Work 5 DC in the next SC. Repeat the shell-and-SC sequence across.
Beginning/ending: Keep complete shells in the pattern area. Use the appropriate partial shell at each edge to maintain a straight side.
22. Griddle Stitch (Alternating SC/DC)
Starting chain: 22
Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. DC in the next CH, SC in the next CH. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in each DC below and DC in each SC below.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: Work into the first actual stitch. Keep the alternating pattern consistent across the row.
23. Rice Stitch (Front-Post SC and DC)
Starting chain: 22
Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook and in each CH across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC around the post of the first DC, then DC in the next stitch. Repeat the front-post SC and DC sequence across.
Row 3: CH 1, turn. Work front-post SC around the designated DC posts and DC in the intervening stitches, maintaining the alternating texture.
Repeat: Continue the alternating raised-post pattern.
Beginning/ending: Keep the post stitches aligned. Use regular edge stitches where needed to maintain a straight side.
24. Extended Single Crochet (ESC)
Starting chain: 21
Row 1: ESC in the second CH from the hook and in each CH across. To make an ESC, insert the hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through one loop, then yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. ESC in the first actual stitch and in each stitch across.
Repeat: Repeat Row 2.
Beginning/ending: The CH-1 does not count as a stitch. Work into the first actual stitch and finish in the last actual stitch.
25. Spike Stitch
Starting chain: 21
Row 1 (Color A): SC in the second CH from the hook and across.
Row 2 (Color B): CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. Work a spike SC by inserting the hook into a stitch one row below, pulling up a loop to the height of the current row, then completing the SC. Alternate regular SC and spike SC across.
Row 3 (Color A): CH 1, turn. SC across.
Repeat: Alternate the spike row and plain SC row, changing colors as desired.
Beginning/ending: Keep the edge stitches at the current row height. Do not place a spike directly at the edge unless intended.
26. Waffle Stitch
Starting chain: 23
Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook and in each CH across.
Row 2: CH 2, turn. DC in the first stitch. Work FPDC around the next stitch, then DC in the next 2 stitches. Repeat the FPDC and DC sequence across, adjusting the final stitches to match the waffle pattern.
Row 3: CH 2, turn. DC in the first stitch. Work DC into the designated DC stitches and FPDC around the raised posts below, maintaining the waffle grid.
Repeat: Continue the raised-post pattern to form the waffle texture.
Beginning/ending: Keep the post-stitch sequence aligned. Use regular DC edge stitches where needed.
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