Chaos Blanket Stitch Reference
Part 1: Your 13 core chaos stitches
The instructions below use common versions of each stitch. Where a stitch has several variations, I've identified that so you can compare it with the way you already crochet.
1. Moss Stitch
Row 1: Sc in first stitch, ch 1, sk 1, sc in next stitch; repeat across.
Row 2 onward: Ch 2, turn. Sc in first chain space, ch 1, sc in next chain space; repeat across. Work the last sc in the final chain space.
Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last chain spaces accounted for. Don't skip them accidentally.
2. Mesh Stitch
Row 1: Dc in the fourth chain from hook, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next chain; repeat.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Dc in the first dc, ch 1, dc in the next dc; repeat across, ending with a dc in the turning chain if it counts as a stitch.
Beginning/ending: Preserve the first and last dc posts and the chain spaces. This is one common mesh variation.
3. Granny Stitch
Row 1: Make 3 dc in one starting space, ch 1, sk 2, 3 dc in next stitch or space; repeat according to your chosen Granny pattern.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Work 3 dc clusters in the spaces between clusters, with chain spaces as established.
Beginning/ending: Start and finish with complete clusters or the appropriate turning-chain/cluster combination. Don't force two individual dc stitches onto the edge; they won't match the cluster structure.
4. Spider Stitch
Row 1: Sc, ch 1, sc all in the same stitch; sk 1. Repeat the group in the next working stitch.
Row 2: Turn and work sc, ch 1, sc into the chain spaces or center spaces of the groups below, skipping the intervening spaces as needed.
Beginning/ending: Keep complete groups wherever possible. The exact turning chain depends on the spider-stitch variation you use.
5. Block Stitch — two colors
A common version alternates a row of dc blocks with a row of sc and chain spaces.
Block row: Work dc blocks separated by the chain spaces specified by your pattern.
Contrast row: Sc into the chain spaces, with chains between the sc stitches to form the open spaces for the next block row.
Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last blocks complete. Change color at the final pull-through of the previous row's last stitch, using the appropriate method for that stitch.
There are several block-stitch patterns. This description is a general guide, not a definitive repeat for your particular version.
6. Crossed Double Crochet
Row 1: Dc in the next stitch, then dc in the previously skipped stitch, crossing the stitches. Repeat in pairs according to your chosen version.
Next row: Ch 3, turn. Start the next crossed pairs in the correct stitches, keeping the same crossing direction.
Beginning/ending: If the repeat leaves one stitch at the edge, use a regular dc there rather than leaving it unworked. Check the last stitch carefully before turning.
7. Houndstooth — two colors
Row 1: With Color A, alternate sc and dc across.
Row 2: With Color B, alternate the stitch heights in the opposite sequence so sc and dc sit over the contrasting stitch types below.
Repeat the color alternation and stitch placement according to the houndstooth version you use.
Beginning/ending: Keep the same color sequence and stitch-height sequence at both edges. The first and last stitches must not be dropped just because the color changes.
8. Double Crochet (DC)
Every row: Ch 3, turn. Skip the first stitch because the chain counts as a dc; dc in each remaining stitch across.
Ending: Work the final dc into the top of the previous row's turning chain when that chain counts as a stitch.
Edge rule: This is your simplest reference row. Count the turning chain consistently.
9. Half Double Crochet (HDC)
Every row: Ch 2, turn. For this version, the chain does not count as a stitch; hdc in the first stitch and each stitch across.
Ending: Work an hdc in the last actual stitch.
Edge rule: Use the same turning-chain convention throughout. If you prefer to count the turning chain as a stitch, the beginning and ending instructions must change accordingly.
10. Falling Leaves (Note: this pattern may not LOOK like this photo)
Row 1: Work DC, CH 1, DC in the same stitch; skip 2 stitches. Repeat the cluster across the row.
Row 2: Turn and work each DC, CH 1, DC cluster into the spaces between the clusters below. Repeat across.
Beginning/ending: Use 2 regular DC stitches at each edge if needed, adjusting the pattern repeat to accommodate them. Keep the stitch count consistent and avoid leaving a partial cluster at either edge.
11. Star Stitch
Star row: Pull up loops through successive stitches, yarn over and pull through the accumulated loops, then chain 1 to close the star. Repeat to form the next star.
Filler row: Ch 2, turn, and work hdc across the row, including the star-center spaces as specified by the pattern.
Beginning/ending: Star stitches need enough stitches to form the first and last stars. Don't substitute two ordinary stitches without adjusting the repeat.
12. Lemon Peel
Row 1: Alternate sc and dc in successive stitches.
Row 2: Alternate stitch heights across the row, keeping the textured pattern consistent.
Beginning/ending: Pay attention to whether the first stitch should be sc or dc so the alternating sequence doesn't shift at the edges.
13. Wattle Stitch
Row 1: Sc, ch 1, dc all in the same stitch; skip the next two stitches. Repeat the group across.
Row 2: Turn and work sc, ch 1, dc into the chain spaces of the groups below, skipping the intervening stitches.
Beginning/ending: Keep the groups aligned and finish with the appropriate edge group. Don't leave a partial repeat unless your chosen version calls for one.
Part 2: Your additional stitches
14. Classic V-Stitch
Row 1: Dc, ch 1, dc all in one stitch or space; skip the next two stitches. Repeat the V across.
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Work a V (dc, ch 1, dc) into each V space below.
Beginning/ending: Aim for a complete V at each edge, using the correct turning-chain or half-V arrangement. Two plain dc stitches won't always preserve the V repeat.
15. Suzette Stitch
Row 1: Sc and dc in the same stitch; skip the next stitch. Repeat across.
Row 2: Work sc and dc together into the appropriate stitch from the previous row, skipping the next stitch. Keep the groups aligned.
Beginning/ending: Preserve the sc-dc groups at both edges. This stitch is compact and textured, unlike Lemon Peel's alternating stitches in successive stitches.
16. Bean Stitch
Row 1: In a stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert into the same stitch and pull up another loop. Yarn over and pull through the gathered loops to complete the bean; chain 1 as required by the version.
Row 2: Turn and work beans into the designated spaces or stitches of the previous row.
Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last beans complete. This stitch can be bulky, so avoid forcing a partial bean at the edge.
17. Bobble Stitch
Bobble row: Work several incomplete dc stitches into the same stitch, then yarn over and pull through all the loops to close the bobble. Alternate with sc or plain stitches as your chosen pattern specifies.
Next row: Work the designated plain stitches or bobble pattern into the stitches and spaces below.
Beginning/ending: Use a plain edge stitch where needed rather than placing a bobble halfway off the edge.
18. Sedge Stitch
Row 1: Sc, hdc, dc all in the same stitch; skip two stitches. Repeat the group across.
Row 2: Turn and work sc, hdc, dc into the appropriate stitch or space of the preceding group, skipping the intervening stitches.
Beginning/ending: Keep the three-stitch groups complete where possible. The row ends need to match the pattern repeat, not just an arbitrary count of two stitches.
19. Trinity Stitch
Special edge treatment
Foundation: Chain an even number plus 1.
Row 1: SC in the second chain from the hook. In the next stitch, work a cluster: insert hook, pull up a loop; insert hook into the same stitch and pull up another loop; insert hook into the same stitch and pull up another loop. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on the hook. CH 1. Repeat the cluster and chain pattern across, adjusting the final stitch to keep the edge even.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. Work the Trinity clusters into the designated stitches and spaces across, following the cluster pattern established in Row 1.
Beginning/ending: Use SC at the edges and keep the cluster sequence consistent. Check the stitch count after each row.
Special edge treatment
Foundation: Chain an even number plus 1.
Row 1: SC in the second chain from the hook. In the next stitch, work a cluster: insert hook, pull up a loop; insert hook into the same stitch and pull up another loop; insert hook into the same stitch and pull up another loop. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on the hook. CH 1. Repeat the cluster and chain pattern across, adjusting the final stitch to keep the edge even.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. Work the Trinity clusters into the designated stitches and spaces across, following the cluster pattern established in Row 1.
Beginning/ending: Use SC at the edges and keep the cluster sequence consistent. Check the stitch count after each row.
20. Alternate Single Crochet (Flax / Granule Stitch)
Two SC edges
Foundation: Chain any number.
Row 1: SC in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the back loop of the first stitch and in the back loop of each stitch across.
Row 3 onward: CH 1, turn. SC in the back loop of each stitch across.
Beginning/ending: Work into the first actual stitch after turning and finish in the last actual stitch. Keep the same loop placement throughout.
Two SC edges
Foundation: Chain any number.
Row 1: SC in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the back loop of the first stitch and in the back loop of each stitch across.
Row 3 onward: CH 1, turn. SC in the back loop of each stitch across.
Beginning/ending: Work into the first actual stitch after turning and finish in the last actual stitch. Keep the same loop placement throughout.
21. Shell Stitch (5-DC Shell)
Special edge treatment
Foundation: Chain a multiple of 6 plus 1.
Row 1: SC in the second chain from the hook. Skip 2 chains, work 5 DC in the next chain, skip 2 chains, SC in the next chain. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 3, turn. Work 2 DC in the first SC. SC in the center DC of the next shell. Work 5 DC in the next SC. Repeat the shell-and-SC sequence across, ending with 3 DC in the final SC where the pattern requires it.
Beginning/ending: Keep complete shells wherever possible. Use the appropriate half-shell or edge stitches to keep both sides even.
Special edge treatment
Foundation: Chain a multiple of 6 plus 1.
Row 1: SC in the second chain from the hook. Skip 2 chains, work 5 DC in the next chain, skip 2 chains, SC in the next chain. Repeat across.
Row 2: CH 3, turn. Work 2 DC in the first SC. SC in the center DC of the next shell. Work 5 DC in the next SC. Repeat the shell-and-SC sequence across, ending with 3 DC in the final SC where the pattern requires it.
Beginning/ending: Keep complete shells wherever possible. Use the appropriate half-shell or edge stitches to keep both sides even.
22. Griddle Stitch (Alternating SC/DC)
Two SC/DC edges
Foundation: Chain an even number plus 1.
Row 1: SC in the second chain from the hook, DC in the next chain. Repeat SC, DC across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first DC, DC in the next SC. Repeat the alternating sequence across.
Beginning/ending: Work into the first actual stitch after turning. Maintain the alternating sequence, adjusting the final stitch if necessary to keep the edge straight.
Two SC/DC edges
Foundation: Chain an even number plus 1.
Row 1: SC in the second chain from the hook, DC in the next chain. Repeat SC, DC across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first DC, DC in the next SC. Repeat the alternating sequence across.
Beginning/ending: Work into the first actual stitch after turning. Maintain the alternating sequence, adjusting the final stitch if necessary to keep the edge straight.
23. Rice Stitch (Front-Post SC and DC)
Two DC edges may work
Foundation: Chain a multiple of 2 plus 1.
Row 1: DC in the fourth chain from the hook and in each chain across.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. Work a front-post SC around the post of the first DC, then DC in the next stitch. Repeat the front-post SC and DC sequence across.
Row 3 onward: CH 1, turn. Work front-post SC around the designated DC posts and DC in the intervening stitches, maintaining the alternating texture.
Beginning/ending: Keep the post-stitch sequence aligned. Use a regular edge stitch if necessary, but make sure the edge stitch count remains consistent.
24. Extended Single Crochet (ESC)
Two ESC edges
Foundation: Chain any number.
Row 1: ESC in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. To make an ESC, insert the hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through one loop, then yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. Work ESC in the first actual stitch and in each stitch across.
Beginning/ending: Because the turning chain does not count as a stitch, work into the first actual stitch after turning and finish in the last actual stitch.
Two ESC edges
Foundation: Chain any number.
Row 1: ESC in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. To make an ESC, insert the hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through one loop, then yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. Work ESC in the first actual stitch and in each stitch across.
Beginning/ending: Because the turning chain does not count as a stitch, work into the first actual stitch after turning and finish in the last actual stitch.
25. Spike Stitch
Two SC edges
Foundation: With Color A, work one row of SC.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. With Color B, work a spike SC by inserting the hook into a stitch one row below, pulling up a loop to the height of the current row, then completing the SC. Alternate regular SC and spike SC across.
Row 3: CH 1, turn. Work SC across in Color A.
Repeat: Alternate the spike row and the plain SC row, changing colors as desired.
Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last stitches at the current row height. Avoid placing a spike directly at the edge unless you want that effect.
Two SC edges
Foundation: With Color A, work one row of SC.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. With Color B, work a spike SC by inserting the hook into a stitch one row below, pulling up a loop to the height of the current row, then completing the SC. Alternate regular SC and spike SC across.
Row 3: CH 1, turn. Work SC across in Color A.
Repeat: Alternate the spike row and the plain SC row, changing colors as desired.
Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last stitches at the current row height. Avoid placing a spike directly at the edge unless you want that effect.
26. Waffle Stitch
Special edge treatment
Foundation: Chain a multiple of 3 plus 2.
Row 1: DC in the third chain from the hook and in each chain across.
Row 2: CH 2, turn. DC in the first stitch. Work FPDC (front-post double crochet) around the next stitch, then DC in the next 2 stitches. Repeat the FPDC and DC sequence across, adjusting the final stitches to match the waffle pattern.
Row 3: CH 2, turn. DC in the first stitch. Work DC into the designated DC stitches and FPDC around the raised posts below, maintaining the waffle grid.
Repeat: Alternate the raised-post pattern to form the waffle texture.
Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last edge stitches consistent and make sure the post stitches line up from row to row.
Special edge treatment
Foundation: Chain a multiple of 3 plus 2.
Row 1: DC in the third chain from the hook and in each chain across.
Row 2: CH 2, turn. DC in the first stitch. Work FPDC (front-post double crochet) around the next stitch, then DC in the next 2 stitches. Repeat the FPDC and DC sequence across, adjusting the final stitches to match the waffle pattern.
Row 3: CH 2, turn. DC in the first stitch. Work DC into the designated DC stitches and FPDC around the raised posts below, maintaining the waffle grid.
Repeat: Alternate the raised-post pattern to form the waffle texture.
Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last edge stitches consistent and make sure the post stitches line up from row to row.
Part 3: The edge system I'd use for your blanket
Here's the practical rule I'd put at the top of your printed reference:
Stitch type | Edge treatment to try |
|---|---|
Plain DC rows | Two DC stitches at each edge, counting the turning chain consistently |
Plain HDC rows | Two HDC stitches at each edge |
SC-based rows | Two SC stitches at each edge, where compatible with the repeat |
Mesh, V-stitch, Granny | Preserve the pattern's chain spaces, clusters, or V shapes at the edges |
Crossed DC | Use complete crossed pairs in the middle and regular DC where needed at the edge |
Star, Bean, Bobble | Keep complete texture units and use an appropriate plain edge stitch |
Two-color patterns | Maintain the stitch count and color-change sequence at both edges |
One caution: because you're changing stitch patterns and colors, don't automatically add four extra stitches to your existing 168-stitch width. Treat the edge stitches as part of the row's total width and adjust the pattern repeat accordingly.
And remember your color changes: for a double crochet, change to the new color during the final pull-through of the old-color stitch. For single crochet, that means changing color on the final pull-through of the sc; for other stitches, the equivalent final step depends on the stitch.
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