Scrappy MOSS Stich Crochet Afghan

Scrappy Moss Stitch Blanket – Crochet Pattern – Oh Me Oh My Crochet

Day 1 - 8 Rows

The "Everything Savory" Cumin-Free Spice Jar

Get an empty jar and measure out these proportions (you can use a standard tablespoon to scoop them in):

• 3 tablespoons Garlic Powder
• 3 tablespoons Dried Chives (adds a beautiful, mild onion-and-herb pop)
• 2 tablespoons Onion Powder
• 2 tablespoons Smoked Paprika (gives everything a rich color and warmth)
• 2 tablespoons Dried Oregano
• 1 tablespoon Dried Basil
• 1 teaspoon Black Pepper
• 1 to 2 teaspoons Salt (adjust to your taste)

How to use it to save your back: Shake the jar up well. When it's time to cook, just heavy-sprinkle it straight onto your veggies or dump a couple of tablespoons right into your batch-cooking ground beef. No measuring required at the stove!

Crochet Guidebook/Glossary/Index

Chaos Blanket Crochet Stitches

Crochet Stitch SAMPLER Instructions

Lucky-13 Memorial Chaos Blanket

Scrappy Moss Stitch Blanket 

Turning at the End of Each Row

Original Chaos Blanket Stitches entry

Crochet Stitch Sampler Book

26 Stitches and Instructions BELOW

Before you begin your sampler

I want your book to be dependable, so here's my recommendation: make the first swatch, Moss Stitch, and check that the sides remain straight. Then use the same method of marking the first and last stitches for each subsequent swatch.

One honest qualification: a few stitches above—particularly Trinity, Rice, Granny, Block and Waffle—are sensitive to their exact repeat and edge construction. The starting chains are practical estimates for worsted-weight yarn, not guarantees of a precise 4–5-inch width. Test each swatch before making it part of your permanent reference book.

Also, Griddle Stitch and Lemon Peel Stitch are commonly used for essentially the same alternating SC/DC texture. You can keep both cards in your collection, but you probably won't need to make two separate swatches unless you want to compare the versions.

Make the swatches individually, then seam two together to form each page! 😊 That's my definite recommendation for your crochet stitch book.

Here's why I think you'll be glad you did.

• Different stitch heights: Waffle, Bobble, and Star stitches can be much thicker than Moss or Mesh. Individual swatches let you adjust each one without affecting its neighbor.

• Different row counts: Some stitches need six or more rows to show their pattern. You won't have to worry about that throwing off the next swatch.

• Better troubleshooting: If you discover a mistake, you can rip out just that swatch.

• Easier labeling: You can identify each stitch before assembling the pages.

Assembly Tips

• 1. Crochet each swatch separately, finishing and securing the yarn ends.

  2. Block or gently shape the swatches so they're approximately the same width.

  3. Seam the two swatches together with a yarn needle and matching yarn.

  4. Attach a small label with the stitch name and its instructions, and comments

  One important detail: Don't force every swatch to be exactly the same height. Make the two swatches on a page roughly equal in height, but let the stitch pattern determine how many rows you need.

  That way, you'll have 13 sturdy, turnable pages, and you can add more whenever you discover another stitch worth keeping.

We're going to make you a proper 26-stitch crochet sampler book! 😄 One swatch for each stitch, in different colors, with instructions you can keep permanently. No more guessing at the beginning or end of a row!

I'm using your worsted-weight yarn and your preference for a consistent, easy-to-recognize edge. I'll choose one version of each stitch, not give you a menu of alternatives.

A quick note about the chain counts: they'll be starting counts aimed at swatches roughly 4–5 inches wide with typical worsted-weight yarn. Your hook size and tension affect the finished width, so the measurements won't be exact for every stitch. Where a stitch has a repeating pattern, I'll use a chain count that accommodates that repeat.

For your sampler, we'll use these rules throughout:

• Mark the first and last actual stitches of every row while learning the stitch.

• The turning chain counts as a stitch only when the instructions say it does.

• Edge stitches are included in the starting width, not added on afterward.

• Work at least four rows; use six or more when needed to see the texture.

• For two-color stitches, change colors during the final pull-through of the last stitch in the old color.

Your 26 swatch instructions

Abbreviations: CH = chain, SC = single crochet, HDC = half double crochet, DC = double crochet, FPDC = front-post double crochet, BLO = back loop only, SK = skip, SP = space, ST = stitch, REP = repeat.

1. Moss Stitch

Starting chain: 21

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. CH 1, SK 1, SC in the next CH. Repeat across.

Row 2: CH 2, turn. SC in the first chain space, CH 1, SC in the next chain space. Repeat across, ending with SC in the final chain space.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: Work the first and last SC into the appropriate edge spaces. The CH-2 turning chain does not count as an SC.

2. Mesh Stitch

Starting chain: 23

Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook. CH 1, SK 1, DC in the next CH. Repeat across.

Row 2: CH 3, turn. DC in the first DC, CH 1, DC in the next DC. Repeat across, ending with DC in the top of the turning chain.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: Count the turning chain as a DC. Keep the final DC in the turning chain so the edges remain even.

3. Granny Stripe

Starting chain: 23

Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook. Work 2 DC in the same chain. SK 2 CH, work 3 DC in the next CH. Repeat across.

Row 2: CH 3, turn. Work 2 DC in the first space between clusters. Work 3 DC in each space between clusters across.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2, working clusters into the spaces between clusters below.

Beginning/ending: Use a turning chain and partial cluster at the beginning as needed. Finish with a complete cluster in the final space.

4. Spider Stitch

Starting chain: 21

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. CH 1, SC in the same CH, SK 1 CH. Repeat across, ending with a complete SC–CH-1–SC group.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. Work SC, CH 1, SC into the center space of each group below.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: Keep each SC–CH-1–SC group complete. Do not skip the first or last group.

5. Block Stitch — Two Colors

Starting chain: 23

Row 1 (Color A): DC in the fourth CH from the hook and in each CH across.

Row 2 (Color B): CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. CH 3, SK 2 ST, SC in the next ST. Repeat across.

Row 3 (Color A): CH 3, turn. Work 3 DC in each chain-3 space across, finishing with DC in the final SC.

Row 4 (Color B): Repeat Row 2, placing each SC in the center DC of the blocks below.

Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last blocks complete where possible. Change colors during the final pull-through of the last stitch in the old color.

6. Crossed Double Crochet

Starting chain: 22

Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook. SK 1 ST, DC in the next ST, DC in the skipped ST, crossing in front of the first DC. Repeat across.

Row 2: CH 3, turn. Work crossed pairs across, keeping the crossing direction consistent.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: Work a regular DC at the edge if an unmatched stitch remains. Do not leave the final stitch unworked.

7. Houndstooth — Two Colors

Starting chain: 22

Row 1 (Color A): SC in the second CH from the hook. DC in the next CH, SC in the next CH. Repeat across.

Row 2 (Color B): CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch, then DC in the next stitch. Continue alternating SC and DC, placing each stitch into the opposite stitch height below.

Repeat: Alternate colors each row and maintain the SC/DC sequence.

Beginning/ending: Keep the color and stitch-height sequence consistent. Change colors on the final pull-through of the last stitch.

8. Double Crochet

Starting chain: 23

Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook and in each CH across.

Row 2: CH 3, turn. SK the first stitch. DC in each remaining stitch across, finishing in the top of the previous turning chain.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: Count the CH-3 as a stitch. Work the final DC into the top of the previous turning chain.

9. Half Double Crochet

Starting chain: 22

Row 1: HDC in the third CH from the hook and in each CH across.

Row 2: CH 2, turn. HDC in the first actual stitch and in every stitch across.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: The CH-2 does not count as a stitch. Work into the first stitch at the base of the turning chain.

10. Falling Leaves

Starting chain: 22

Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook. CH 1, DC in the same stitch, SK 2 ST, DC–CH 1–DC in the next stitch. Repeat the cluster pattern across.

Row 2: CH 3, turn. Work DC–CH 1–DC clusters into the spaces between clusters below.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: Keep complete clusters at the edges where possible. Use regular DC stitches to maintain the edge if needed.

11. Star Stitch

Starting chain: 22

Row 1: Pull up loops through successive stitches to form the first star, yarn over and pull through all gathered loops, then CH 1 to close. Continue forming stars across the row.

Row 2: CH 2, turn. HDC across, working into the star-center spaces and stitches as required.

Repeat: Alternate the star row and HDC row.

Beginning/ending: Form complete stars wherever possible. The final star may need an edge adjustment.

12. Lemon Peel Stitch

Starting chain: 22

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. DC in the next CH, SC in the next CH. Repeat across.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in each DC below and DC in each SC below.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: The CH-1 does not count as a stitch. Work into the first actual stitch and maintain the alternating pattern.

13. Wattle Stitch

Starting chain: 22

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. CH 1, DC in the same CH, SK 2 CH, SC in the next CH. Repeat across.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC, CH 1, DC into the chain spaces of the groups below, following the established Wattle pattern.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: Keep the SC–CH-1–DC groups aligned. Finish with the appropriate edge stitch.

14. Classic V-Stitch

Starting chain: 22

Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook. SK 2 CH, (DC, CH 1, DC) in the next CH. Repeat across.

Row 2: CH 3, turn. Work (DC, CH 1, DC) into each V space across, finishing with DC in the turning chain as needed.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: Keep complete V shapes in the pattern area. Use the appropriate turning-chain arrangement at the edges.

15. Suzette Stitch

Starting chain: 21

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. In the next CH, work SC and DC together; SK the next CH. Repeat across.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. Work SC and DC in the same stitch, skip the next stitch, and repeat across.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: Keep the SC/DC groups intact and work into the first actual stitch after turning.

16. Bean Stitch

Starting chain: 21

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. In the next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert into the same stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over, insert into the same stitch and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all six loops; CH 1. SK 1 ST. Repeat across.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. Work each bean into the designated stitches across, maintaining the bean-and-chain pattern.

Beginning/ending: Keep complete beans where possible. Avoid leaving a partial bean at either edge.

17. Bobble Stitch

Starting chain: 21

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook and across.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. In the next stitch, work 5 incomplete DC, leaving the final loop of each on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all loops to close the bobble. SC in the next stitch. Repeat bobble and SC across.

Row 3: CH 1, turn. SC across.

Repeat: Alternate the bobble row and plain SC row.

Beginning/ending: Keep plain SC stitches at both edges. Do not place a bobble halfway off the edge.

18. Sedge Stitch

Starting chain: 23

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. In the next CH, work SC, HDC and DC together in the same stitch. SK 2 CH, work SC, HDC and DC in the next CH. Repeat across.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. Work SC, HDC and DC in the designated stitch or space of each group below, maintaining the pattern repeat.

Beginning/ending: Keep each three-stitch group complete where possible. Adjust the last group to maintain a straight edge.

19. Trinity Stitch

Starting chain: 21

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. Insert hook into the same stitch, pull up a loop; insert into the next stitch and pull up a loop; insert into the next stitch and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all four loops. CH 1. Repeat the cluster sequence across, using the preceding stitch as specified by the Trinity repeat.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. Work Trinity clusters across, inserting the hook into the stitches and spaces specified by the cluster sequence.

Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last clusters complete wherever possible. Use plain SC at the edges if needed.

20. Alternate Single Crochet (Flax / Granule Stitch)

Starting chain: 21

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook and in each CH across.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the back loop only of each stitch across.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: The CH-1 does not count as a stitch. Work into the first actual stitch and finish in the last actual stitch.

21. Shell Stitch (5-DC Shell)

Starting chain: 25

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. SK 2 CH, work 5 DC in the next CH, SK 2 CH, SC in the next CH. Repeat across.

Row 2: CH 3, turn. Work 2 DC in the first SC where needed to form the edge shell. SC in the center DC of the next shell. Work 5 DC in the next SC. Repeat the shell-and-SC sequence across.

Beginning/ending: Keep complete shells in the pattern area. Use the appropriate partial shell at each edge to maintain a straight side.

22. Griddle Stitch (Alternating SC/DC)

Starting chain: 22

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. DC in the next CH, SC in the next CH. Repeat across.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in each DC below and DC in each SC below.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: Work into the first actual stitch. Keep the alternating pattern consistent across the row.

23. Rice Stitch (Front-Post SC and DC)

Starting chain: 22

Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook and in each CH across.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC around the post of the first DC, then DC in the next stitch. Repeat the front-post SC and DC sequence across.

Row 3: CH 1, turn. Work front-post SC around the designated DC posts and DC in the intervening stitches, maintaining the alternating texture.

Repeat: Continue the alternating raised-post pattern.

Beginning/ending: Keep the post stitches aligned. Use regular edge stitches where needed to maintain a straight side.

24. Extended Single Crochet (ESC)

Starting chain: 21

Row 1: ESC in the second CH from the hook and in each CH across. To make an ESC, insert the hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through one loop, then yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. ESC in the first actual stitch and in each stitch across.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2.

Beginning/ending: The CH-1 does not count as a stitch. Work into the first actual stitch and finish in the last actual stitch.

25. Spike Stitch

Starting chain: 21

Row 1 (Color A): SC in the second CH from the hook and across.

Row 2 (Color B): CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. Work a spike SC by inserting the hook into a stitch one row below, pulling up a loop to the height of the current row, then completing the SC. Alternate regular SC and spike SC across.

Row 3 (Color A): CH 1, turn. SC across.

Repeat: Alternate the spike row and plain SC row, changing colors as desired.

Beginning/ending: Keep the edge stitches at the current row height. Do not place a spike directly at the edge unless intended.

26. Waffle Stitch

Starting chain: 23

Row 1: DC in the fourth CH from the hook and in each CH across.

Row 2: CH 2, turn. DC in the first stitch. Work FPDC around the next stitch, then DC in the next 2 stitches. Repeat the FPDC and DC sequence across, adjusting the final stitches to match the waffle pattern.

Row 3: CH 2, turn. DC in the first stitch. Work DC into the designated DC stitches and FPDC around the raised posts below, maintaining the waffle grid.

Repeat: Continue the raised-post pattern to form the waffle texture.

Beginning/ending: Keep the post-stitch sequence aligned. Use regular DC edge stitches where needed.

CROCHET: Chaos Blanket Stitches

Chaos Blanket Stitch Reference

At end of this post: General Edge-System Overview

Alt. Single Crochet (Flax/Granule) - 20

Bean - 16

Block (2c)  - 5

Bobble - 17

Crossed DC - 6

DC - 8

ESC (Extended sc) - 24

Falling Leaves - 10

Granny - 3

Griddle (Lemon Peel Variation) - 22

HDC - 9

Houndstooth (2c) - 7

Lemon Peel - 12

Mesh - 2

Moss (2c) - 1

Rice - 23

Sedge - 18

Shell (5-DC Shell) - 21

Spider - 4

Spike - 25

Star - 11

Suzette - 15

Trinity - 19

(Classic) V-Stitch - 14

Waffle - 26

Wattle - 13

Part 1: Your 13 core chaos stitches

The instructions below use common versions of each stitch. Where a stitch has several variations, I've identified that so you can compare it with the way you already crochet.

1. Moss Stitch

Two SC edges possible

Row 1: Sc in first stitch, ch 1, sk 1, sc in next stitch; repeat across.

Row 2 onward: Ch 2, turn. Sc in first chain space, ch 1, sc in next chain space; repeat across. Work the last sc in the final chain space.

Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last chain spaces accounted for. Don't skip them accidentally.

2. Mesh Stitch

Two DC edges possible

Row 1: Dc in the fourth chain from hook, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next chain; repeat.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Dc in the first dc, ch 1, dc in the next dc; repeat across, ending with a dc in the turning chain if it counts as a stitch.

Beginning/ending: Preserve the first and last dc posts and the chain spaces. This is one common mesh variation.

3. Granny Stitch

Special edge treatment

Row 1: Make 3 dc in one starting space, ch 1, sk 2, 3 dc in next stitch or space; repeat according to your chosen Granny pattern.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Work 3 dc clusters in the spaces between clusters, with chain spaces as established.

Beginning/ending: Start and finish with complete clusters or the appropriate turning-chain/cluster combination. Don't force two individual dc stitches onto the edge; they won't match the cluster structure.

4. Spider Stitch

Two SC edges possible

Row 1: Sc, ch 1, sc all in the same stitch; sk 1. Repeat the group in the next working stitch.

Row 2: Turn and work sc, ch 1, sc into the chain spaces or center spaces of the groups below, skipping the intervening spaces as needed.

Beginning/ending: Keep complete groups wherever possible. The exact turning chain depends on the spider-stitch variation you use.

5. Block Stitch — two colors

Special edge treatment

A common version alternates a row of dc blocks with a row of sc and chain spaces.

Block row: Work dc blocks separated by the chain spaces specified by your pattern.

Contrast row: Sc into the chain spaces, with chains between the sc stitches to form the open spaces for the next block row.

Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last blocks complete. Change color at the final pull-through of the previous row's last stitch, using the appropriate method for that stitch.

There are several block-stitch patterns. This description is a general guide, not a definitive repeat for your particular version.

6. Crossed Double Crochet

Two DC edges possible

Row 1: Dc in the next stitch, then dc in the previously skipped stitch, crossing the stitches. Repeat in pairs according to your chosen version.

Next row: Ch 3, turn. Start the next crossed pairs in the correct stitches, keeping the same crossing direction.

Beginning/ending: If the repeat leaves one stitch at the edge, use a regular dc there rather than leaving it unworked. Check the last stitch carefully before turning.

7. Houndstooth — two colors

Watch the edge color

Row 1: With Color A, alternate sc and dc across.

Row 2: With Color B, alternate the stitch heights in the opposite sequence so sc and dc sit over the contrasting stitch types below.

Repeat the color alternation and stitch placement according to the houndstooth version you use.

Beginning/ending: Keep the same color sequence and stitch-height sequence at both edges. The first and last stitches must not be dropped just because the color changes.

8. Double Crochet (DC)

Two DC edges

Every row: Ch 3, turn. Skip the first stitch because the chain counts as a dc; dc in each remaining stitch across.

Ending: Work the final dc into the top of the previous row's turning chain when that chain counts as a stitch.

Edge rule: This is your simplest reference row. Count the turning chain consistently.

9. Half Double Crochet (HDC)

Two HDC edges

Every row: Ch 2, turn. For this version, the chain does not count as a stitch; hdc in the first stitch and each stitch across.

Ending: Work an hdc in the last actual stitch.

Edge rule: Use the same turning-chain convention throughout. If you prefer to count the turning chain as a stitch, the beginning and ending instructions must change accordingly.

10. Falling Leaves (Note: this pattern may not LOOK like this photo)

Row 1: Work DC, CH 1, DC in the same stitch; skip 2 stitches. Repeat the cluster across the row.

Row 2: Turn and work each DC, CH 1, DC cluster into the spaces between the clusters below. Repeat across.

Beginning/ending: Use 2 regular DC stitches at each edge if needed, adjusting the pattern repeat to accommodate them. Keep the stitch count consistent and avoid leaving a partial cluster at either edge.

11. Star Stitch

Special edge treatment

Star row: Pull up loops through successive stitches, yarn over and pull through the accumulated loops, then chain 1 to close the star. Repeat to form the next star.

Filler row: Ch 2, turn, and work hdc across the row, including the star-center spaces as specified by the pattern.

Beginning/ending: Star stitches need enough stitches to form the first and last stars. Don't substitute two ordinary stitches without adjusting the repeat.

12. Lemon Peel

Two SC/DC edge stitches possible

Row 1: Alternate sc and dc in successive stitches.

Row 2: Alternate stitch heights across the row, keeping the textured pattern consistent.

Beginning/ending: Pay attention to whether the first stitch should be sc or dc so the alternating sequence doesn't shift at the edges.

13. Wattle Stitch

Two SC edges may work

Row 1: Sc, ch 1, dc all in the same stitch; skip the next two stitches. Repeat the group across.

Row 2: Turn and work sc, ch 1, dc into the chain spaces of the groups below, skipping the intervening stitches.

Beginning/ending: Keep the groups aligned and finish with the appropriate edge group. Don't leave a partial repeat unless your chosen version calls for one.

Part 2: Your additional stitches

14. Classic V-Stitch

Special edge treatment

Row 1: Dc, ch 1, dc all in one stitch or space; skip the next two stitches. Repeat the V across.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Work a V (dc, ch 1, dc) into each V space below.

Beginning/ending: Aim for a complete V at each edge, using the correct turning-chain or half-V arrangement. Two plain dc stitches won't always preserve the V repeat.

15. Suzette Stitch

Two SC/DC edge stitches possible

Row 1: Sc and dc in the same stitch; skip the next stitch. Repeat across.

Row 2: Work sc and dc together into the appropriate stitch from the previous row, skipping the next stitch. Keep the groups aligned.

Beginning/ending: Preserve the sc-dc groups at both edges. This stitch is compact and textured, unlike Lemon Peel's alternating stitches in successive stitches.

16. Bean Stitch

Special edge treatment

Row 1: In a stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert into the same stitch and pull up another loop. Yarn over and pull through the gathered loops to complete the bean; chain 1 as required by the version.

Row 2: Turn and work beans into the designated spaces or stitches of the previous row.

Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last beans complete. This stitch can be bulky, so avoid forcing a partial bean at the edge.

17. Bobble Stitch

Special edge treatment

Bobble row: Work several incomplete dc stitches into the same stitch, then yarn over and pull through all the loops to close the bobble. Alternate with sc or plain stitches as your chosen pattern specifies.

Next row: Work the designated plain stitches or bobble pattern into the stitches and spaces below.

Beginning/ending: Use a plain edge stitch where needed rather than placing a bobble halfway off the edge.

18. Sedge Stitch

Two SC/HDC/DC edge stitches may work

Row 1: Sc, hdc, dc all in the same stitch; skip two stitches. Repeat the group across.

Row 2: Turn and work sc, hdc, dc into the appropriate stitch or space of the preceding group, skipping the intervening stitches.

Beginning/ending: Keep the three-stitch groups complete where possible. The row ends need to match the pattern repeat, not just an arbitrary count of two stitches.

19. Trinity Stitch

Special edge treatment

Foundation: Chain an even number plus 1.

Row 1: SC in the second chain from the hook. In the next stitch, work a cluster: insert hook, pull up a loop; insert hook into the same stitch and pull up another loop; insert hook into the same stitch and pull up another loop. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on the hook. CH 1. Repeat the cluster and chain pattern across, adjusting the final stitch to keep the edge even.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. Work the Trinity clusters into the designated stitches and spaces across, following the cluster pattern established in Row 1.

Beginning/ending: Use SC at the edges and keep the cluster sequence consistent. Check the stitch count after each row.

20. Alternate Single Crochet (Flax / Granule Stitch)

Two SC edges

Foundation: Chain any number.

Row 1: SC in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the back loop of the first stitch and in the back loop of each stitch across.

Row 3 onward: CH 1, turn. SC in the back loop of each stitch across.

Beginning/ending: Work into the first actual stitch after turning and finish in the last actual stitch. Keep the same loop placement throughout.

21. Shell Stitch (5-DC Shell)

Special edge treatment

Foundation: Chain a multiple of 6 plus 1.

Row 1: SC in the second chain from the hook. Skip 2 chains, work 5 DC in the next chain, skip 2 chains, SC in the next chain. Repeat across.

Row 2: CH 3, turn. Work 2 DC in the first SC. SC in the center DC of the next shell. Work 5 DC in the next SC. Repeat the shell-and-SC sequence across, ending with 3 DC in the final SC where the pattern requires it.

Beginning/ending: Keep complete shells wherever possible. Use the appropriate half-shell or edge stitches to keep both sides even.

22. Griddle Stitch (Alternating SC/DC)

Two SC/DC edges

Foundation: Chain an even number plus 1.

Row 1: SC in the second chain from the hook, DC in the next chain. Repeat SC, DC across.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first DC, DC in the next SC. Repeat the alternating sequence across.

Beginning/ending: Work into the first actual stitch after turning. Maintain the alternating sequence, adjusting the final stitch if necessary to keep the edge straight.

23. Rice Stitch (Front-Post SC and DC)

Two DC edges may work

Foundation: Chain a multiple of 2 plus 1.

Row 1: DC in the fourth chain from the hook and in each chain across.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. Work a front-post SC around the post of the first DC, then DC in the next stitch. Repeat the front-post SC and DC sequence across.

Row 3 onward: CH 1, turn. Work front-post SC around the designated DC posts and DC in the intervening stitches, maintaining the alternating texture.

Beginning/ending: Keep the post-stitch sequence aligned. Use a regular edge stitch if necessary, but make sure the edge stitch count remains consistent.

24. Extended Single Crochet (ESC)

Two ESC edges

Foundation: Chain any number.

Row 1: ESC in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. To make an ESC, insert the hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through one loop, then yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. Work ESC in the first actual stitch and in each stitch across.

Beginning/ending: Because the turning chain does not count as a stitch, work into the first actual stitch after turning and finish in the last actual stitch.

25. Spike Stitch

Two SC edges

Foundation: With Color A, work one row of SC.

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. With Color B, work a spike SC by inserting the hook into a stitch one row below, pulling up a loop to the height of the current row, then completing the SC. Alternate regular SC and spike SC across.

Row 3: CH 1, turn. Work SC across in Color A.

Repeat: Alternate the spike row and the plain SC row, changing colors as desired.

Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last stitches at the current row height. Avoid placing a spike directly at the edge unless you want that effect.

26. Waffle Stitch

Special edge treatment

Foundation: Chain a multiple of 3 plus 2.

Row 1: DC in the third chain from the hook and in each chain across.

Row 2: CH 2, turn. DC in the first stitch. Work FPDC (front-post double crochet) around the next stitch, then DC in the next 2 stitches. Repeat the FPDC and DC sequence across, adjusting the final stitches to match the waffle pattern.

Row 3: CH 2, turn. DC in the first stitch. Work DC into the designated DC stitches and FPDC around the raised posts below, maintaining the waffle grid.

Repeat: Alternate the raised-post pattern to form the waffle texture.

Beginning/ending: Keep the first and last edge stitches consistent and make sure the post stitches line up from row to row.

Part 3: The edge system I'd use for your blanket

Here's the practical rule I'd put at the top of your printed reference:

Stitch type	Edge treatment to try
Plain DC rows	Two DC stitches at each edge, counting the turning chain consistently
Plain HDC rows	Two HDC stitches at each edge
SC-based rows	Two SC stitches at each edge, where compatible with the repeat
Mesh, V-stitch, Granny	Preserve the pattern's chain spaces, clusters, or V shapes at the edges
Crossed DC	Use complete crossed pairs in the middle and regular DC where needed at the edge
Star, Bean, Bobble	Keep complete texture units and use an appropriate plain edge stitch
Two-color patterns	Maintain the stitch count and color-change sequence at both edges

One caution: because you're changing stitch patterns and colors, don't automatically add four extra stitches to your existing 168-stitch width. Treat the edge stitches as part of the row's total width and adjust the pattern repeat accordingly.

And remember your color changes: for a double crochet, change to the new color during the final pull-through of the old-color stitch. For single crochet, that means changing color on the final pull-through of the sc; for other stitches, the equivalent final step depends on the stitch.

CROCHET: Turning at the End of Each Row

Turning at the end of each row:

When you turn and sc or dc, do you go into the NEXT stitch or into the base of the one you just finished. I can usually tell, but sometimes it looks funky....

The answer is: it depends on whether your turning chain counts as a stitch. Let's make this simple.

Your guide to starting a new row

1. Double crochet (your usual method)

You chain 3 and count it as a stitch.     Turn your work.

Skip the stitch directly at the base of the chain.

Work your first actual double crochet into the next stitch.

         At the end of the row, work the last double crochet into the top of the previous row's turning chain, if that chain counts as a stitch.

2. Single crochet

Usually, chain 1 and turn. If the turning chain does not count as a stitch:

Work your first single crochet into the very first stitch, right at the base of the chain.

Don't skip that stitch.

At the end, work into the last actual stitch of the row.

3. Half double  crochet

If you chain 2 and do not count it as a stitch:

Work your first HDC into the very first stitch at the base of the chain.

Work across the row.

Finish in the last actual stitch.

    If you count the turning chain as a stitch instead, you'll use a different beginning and ending routine.

The easiest way to remember

DC

Chain 3 counts as a stitch → skip the first stitch; work into the next.

SC

Chain 1 doesn't count → work into the first stitch.

HDC

Chain 2 doesn't count → work into the first stitch.

One little warning for your chaos blanket: these are the usual conventions, not universal rules. Some crocheters use a chainless starting stitch or a different turning-chain convention.

My favorite trick for you: put a stitch marker in the first actual stitch of a row as soon as you've made it. When you come back across on the next row, you'll know exactly where that edge stitch belongs. No guessing, no gradually shrinking blanket!

And remember: the stitch you just finished is behind your hook now. You don't work into that same stitch again unless the pattern specifically calls for it.